Ever go out to a restaurant and want a bottle of wine but are given a list so long you forget whether you&rsquo;re ordering a beverage or studying for a master&rsquo;s degree? Wine lists are often awarded accolades by various publications like Wine Spectator, but what does any of it really mean? For a lot of magazines and newspapers, wine lists are judged on the scope and depth of the list; meaning how many bottles are carried in house, the range of both classics (French Burgundy) and out-of-the-box options (Spanish Monastrell), as well as verticals (multiple vintage offerings of the same wine). But for you, as the consumer, does this really matter? What does, in fact, make a great wine list? I polled some of my sommelier colleagues to find out.

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VARIETY OF PRICE POINTS

As a sommelier, I notice that guests at the restaurant are sometimes scared to talk to me. Other than feeling intimidated about the subject matter, I often find it&rsquo;s because they are afraid I&rsquo;m going to only recommend $200 + bottles. This is not the case! While I would love to sell you a rare 1995 Opus One for $900, that is definitely not my go to. I always offer a low, mid, and high-range bottle. I also ask if there is a price point in mind before offering recommendations. A great wine list should have tasty bottles at all levels.

Andrew Pettingell, beverage director at Otium in downtown LA, echoes my sentiment. &ldquo;I don&rsquo;t like lists that only have cheap bottles or only expensive bottles,&rdquo; he says. &ldquo;You don&rsquo;t have to have a lot of bottles at every price point, just some.&rdquo; This gives the guest flexibility. If a high end restaurant only has wines over $200 it can discourage people from coming back or trying a new wine. On the flip side, if a list only has $50 bottles it robs them of the opportunity to try a special occasion wine they may not be able to buy anywhere else.

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AVAILABILITY OF WINE

While having a lot of wines on your list is fun (the list I work with at 71 Above showcases 865 bottles), make sure the list is current! There is nothing more frustrating than ordering a bottle of wine only to be told it&rsquo;s not available, then ordering a second bottle and also not having that one in stock. This is one of the easiest ways to lose repeat patrons. Cristie Norman, wine director at Delilah in Las Vegas says, &ldquo;I believe that 80% of a wine director&rsquo;s role is making wines available to the guest, so take the time to add and remove wines ASAP. I&rsquo;m doing a full reprint once a week, so that I know for sure if a guest orders a wine that we have it.&rdquo;

Of course, as every sommelier knows, as soon as you print a new list it&rsquo;s inevitable for someone to order the last bottle. There will always be a couple wines that are out, so a good sommelier should have an alternative ready to suggest at all times. Vintages (the year the wine was made) are also constantly changing, so it&rsquo;s important to update that as much as possible and communicate to a guest right away if there is a discrepancy. Lack of communication on the list comes off as superior (&ldquo;They won&rsquo;t notice anyway.&rdquo;) or uncaring (&ldquo;They&rsquo;ll have to take whatever we have.&rdquo;).

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CREATIVITY

In my opinion, creativity on a wine list is the most important consideration. It&rsquo;s what separates the cream of the crop from the rest of the pack. Anyone can carry Caymus or Duckhorn. But what makes a wine experience truly memorable? Rebecca Rose Philips of Vintage Wine + Eats in Sherman Oaks, CA runs a smaller wine bar with an affordable price point for her neighborhood patrons. She says she loves to &ldquo;give the people what they want but in a way they didn&rsquo;t know they wanted it.&rdquo; For example, her clientele loves Napa Cab but she rarely has one on the by-the-glass list because the price point is too expensive. So instead, she offers a local LA red blend by Byron Blatty or an oaked Sangiovese from Los Olivos, CA. &ldquo;I make sure to have a big, bold red on the list but it&rsquo;s something completely unexpected,&rdquo; Philips says. &ldquo;It keeps guests excited, they learn something new, and allows us to be creative.&rdquo;

One of the first things I ask guests after white or red and light or full bodied, is if they&rsquo;re feeling adventurous. If a guest tells me that they want a full bodied white, it&rsquo;s easy to point them to Chardonnay. But a good list has some out-of-the-box options. I could also offer them a Savagnin from the Jura in France with nutty, oxidative flavors that build on a traditional California Chardonnay&rsquo;s butter. Or a Palomino from Priorat Spain that is almost sherry like. A good list has both safe and creative options to give guests whichever experience they desire.

While a range of wines is important, a lot of sommeliers get caught up only in wines that speak to their inner geek like orange or natural wines. But having sweet whites and reds are also something that people ask for. If the list uses creative solutions like carrying Lambrusco, a sweet, sparkling red wine, they can both give the people what they want and teach them about a new style. A good list should carry at least one example of all the major varietals of the world. Johnnie Oberg of Maestro&rsquo;s Ocean Club in Malibu states, &ldquo;If we serve oysters and don&rsquo;t have an Albarino by the glass but have nine Chardonnays, it&rsquo;s a missed opportunity.&rdquo; Likewise, going to a French restaurant that only serves American wine seems uninspired. Matching wine to food is one of the most special things a sommelier can do.

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FOOD AND WINE CONNECTION

Speaking of food and wine pairings, a good wine list always takes its food menu into consideration. This can be obvious in situations like Nathaniel Munoz&rsquo;s list at Osteria Mozza, where Italian food has ample Italian wine options, or Courtney Kaplan&rsquo;s vast sake list at Japanese izakaya restaurant Tsubaki. But what about restaurants where the theme is a little less on the nose?

At The Girl and the Goat, an eclectic restaurant in downtown Los Angeles, the food theme is less obvious. Menu items infuse food with unexpected flavors, like Hamachi crudo in browned goat butter or an Asian style duck tartar. Due to the varying flavors and types of food, Wine Director Kristinah Kim curates her list around versatile wines that complement a variety of dishes like a valdigue by Cruse Wine Co. The wine&rsquo;s light berry fruit has a slight earthy quality that can pair with dishes from the beet salad to the skirt steak.

Kim also focuses on sustainable farming to match the menu&rsquo;s farmer&rsquo;s market vibe, noting that, &ldquo;We highlight biodiverse and outside-the-mold winemakers. The list brings attention to regions of incredible value such as Ribeiro Galicia and Patagonia, and is rounded out with my favorite grower Champagnes, classic producers, and Loire pioneers. I look to bring the question of what exactly does &quot;natural&quot; mean in a vineyard and agricultural setting, and hopefully answer it with some lively, pure expressions that also compliment the food!&rdquo;

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DOES DRC AND VERTICAL VINTAGES MATTER?

DRC stands for Domaine Romanee-Conti, a producer in Burgundy that makes some of the most expensive wine in the world. In fact, they smashed the world record for most expensive bottle of wine when two bottles of 1945 Romanee-Conti sold for $558,000 and $496,000 at Sotheby&rsquo;s New York in 2018! This is because these bottles are incredibly rare and difficult to obtain. They only made 600 bottles of the 1945. Today, the average bottle of the current vintage goes for $23,066.

But when I polled sommeliers about their importance I found a different story.&nbsp; Andrew Pettingell states, &ldquo;DRC the wine? Definitely not important. I personally don&rsquo;t like anything where companies make you buy a bunch of other wines to receive it. There&rsquo;s too much great wine out there.&rdquo; Pettingell is referring to a phenomenon where wine companies make demands of restaurants so they can be lucky enough to buy one bottle of DRC. For example, a restaurant may have to carry 3-6 of the company&rsquo;s lesser wines on their by-the-glass list at all times in order to get one bottle of DRC a year. This is a great money maker for the wine companies but sommeliers are often forced to carry wines they don&rsquo;t love.

The other problem with DRC is that most sommeliers have never tasted it. Beverage directors are definitely not tasting it ahead of purchase like they do with other wine, nor will sommeliers taste the bottle when it is in house. Therefore, guests are buying a wine because it&rsquo;s a commodity, not because a sommelier is genuinely passionate about it. &ldquo;I hate when I look at a list and can tell they are buying from the same three reps,&rdquo; Pettingell continues. &ldquo;That&rsquo;s lazy. It shows me that the list is more about supporting the book than trying to find the best wines.&rdquo;

As for vertical vintages, it&rsquo;s a fun concept to have if you have a large list and can afford it. I love getting the chance to sell a group two bottles of the same wine with a 20 year age difference, like our 2000 vintage of Spring Mountain Cabernet next to the current release. It&rsquo;s a unique experience that can&rsquo;t be created at home. But 71 Above is a large restaurant with a cellar that houses over 4,500 wines and buys from over 130 wine reps. 99% of restaurants can&rsquo;t work off of that model and that doesn&rsquo;t mean that they can&rsquo;t have a great wine list. Nor are the majority of guests buying that kind of experience on the average night out.

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A Little Research Makes All the Difference

The good news is that a great wine list can be found in a diverse amount of venues. If a list is current, creative, and food focused then it can shine whether it has 30 wines or 300. But always research the lists before you go! Decide what it is you want on any given occasion. Do you want to try something new? What about that new natural wine bar? Are you looking for an intimate setting with affordable, local wines? Try a smaller wine bar. Are you wanting to impress your date on an anniversary? Check out a fine dining restaurant. Assess the range of prices and styles ahead of time to make sure that they have what you&rsquo;re looking for.

Also, feel free to call ahead! A restaurant&rsquo;s beverage director is always happy to chat with you beforehand, especially if you would like to pick out a bottle as a surprise for your party. Personally, my goal as a sommelier is to give you the best drinking experience possible. Because what makes a wine list good to me, is its satisfied patrons.

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Wine lists are often awarded accolades by various publications like Wine Spectator, but what does any of it really mean? I polled some of my sommelier colleagues to find out.

What Makes A Great Wine List?

Wines from grapes grown in higher altitude areas with cooler climate has become quite the trend recently. This specific growing environment gives intense flavor but elegance and freshness to the final wines. To highlight and champion these conditions more and more winemakers are starting to use alto as a marketing and labelling term to show their grapes were grown in high altitude vineyards.

Decoding the wine label: Alto

Brut is a word often seen on labels for different kinds of sparkling wine. As you may have discovered when drinking these wines, it indicates that the wine is dry, meaning there is no perceived sweetness in the wine. But how about Extra Brut or Dry, what do they mean and are they the same as Brut?

Decoding the wine label: Brut

Semi-sweet Riesling, a type of wine falling out of style. It’s a shame, since these wines are perfect to pair with flavorful cuisines like Asian or Mexican, or simply drink as they come under the summer sun. The higher level of sugar left in the wine also means that the alcoholic fermentation was stopped before finishing, providing a wine with lower alcohol level and therefor easier grabbing a second glass of.

Decoding the wine label: Spätlese

Have you ever heard the word Xinomavro? Most have not. It is however a word on many sommeliers’ lips today, as it happens to be considered the grape variety with the highest quality in Greece, and one that is trending at the moment. The fact that Greece have been making wine for a long time comes as no surprise, but they have never exported an amount to make sure wine lovers around the globe tried it. With the growing wine tourism many have discovered these wines and are serving them in wine bars and restaurants in many countries today.

Decoding the wine label: Xinomavro

Chianti Classico, Valpolicella Classico, Soave Classico… Why do all these Italian wine regions have the Classico addendum and what does it mean? What is the difference for wines labeled as Classico?

Classico is a wine term in Italy seen on a few wine labels and it indicates that the wine’s from the historic center of the region, the heart. Using Chianti and Chianti Classico and their Sangiovese-based red wines as an example, Chianti is a rather large wine district within the Tuscany region. Chianti Classico is located withing Chianti as the central part and the one that originally existed. Back then this smaller region was actually called Chianti, but as the region grew the quality of the wine plummeted and the well-known characteristics of these red wines were watered down. The reputation took a hit and sales diminished. Eventually this led to the creation of Chianti Classico, which would be drawn from the original Chianti borders to recover the typicity of these wines. Today the quality of both Chianti and Chianti Classico have risen a lot due to modern techniques and knowledge about pruning, planting and temperature control in the winery.

Decoding the wine label: Classico

In the rarefied world of fine wine, where bottles can command prices equivalent to luxury cars, authenticity is everything. Laurent Ponsot's gripping memoir "FBI: Fake Bottle Investigation" reads more like a high-stakes thriller than a traditional wine book, chronicling his relentless pursuit of one of the wine world's most infamous counterfeiters, Rudy Kurniawan.

From Burgundy's Vineyards to the FBI's Most Wanted: A Winemaker's Quest for Justice

Chablis – one of the more popular styles of wine today and a region known by many. Most are familiar with the word Chablis and the light, fresh white wine with a touch of minerality it brings. Even though it’s a renowned wine, few knows what it really is.

Decoding the wine label: Chablis

Many grape varieties around the world of wine have names local to the region or country they’re grown in, even though they’re exactly the same. The most famous example would be Syrah in France where the same grape is named Shiraz in Australia. Another variety with two names is Pinot Grigio, or Pinot Gris.

Decoding the wine label: Pinot Grigio

Have you ever seen the term sur lie on a wine label? It’s not a grape and not a wine region, but a winemaking method used to give certain styles of white wine a rounder texture and a more complex flavor profile.

Decoding the wine label: Sur lie

Michaela Quinlan, certified sommelier, and Robert Tas visit The White Horse Tavern in Rhode Island.

Wine List Review of The White Horse Tavern, 

Michaela Quinlan

The White Horse Tavern

White Horse

RT: Hello and welcome to CorkRules!&nbsp;

A podcast where, in each episode,&nbsp;we will review a wine list from your favorite restaurants. I&rsquo;m your host Robert Tas along with Michaela Quinlan, certified sommelier.

Hello Michaela,&nbsp;it&rsquo;s great to be back together for another episode.

MQ: Hi Robert!

RT: Before we jump in, let&rsquo;s talk about CorkRules.

We created CorkRules to demystify wine list&rsquo;s because we know from experience, that sometimes when we get that list handed to us, well&hellip; it can be intimidating, and even a little daunting.

Our aim is to help prepare you to navigate that list, find those hidden gems, or value wines or that special bottle that will take your dining experience over the top.

RT:&nbsp;So, sit back and listen as we review your favorite wine list.

RT: Today we are talking about White Horse Tavern. Located in Newport, RI, the White Horse Tavern is known to be the oldest operating restaurant in the US serving guests since 1673, and the 10th oldest in the world. The White Horse Tavern has been featuring the freshest fish, seafood, produce, and beef from local sellers and farms since 1673. Whether or not you are familiar with 17th Century architecture, you will immediately identify this classic, colonial Inn.

Michaela, I can&rsquo;t wait to hear what do you think of their wine list?

MQ: While Newport is beautiful in the summer, the White Horse Tavern shines during all seasons. My favorite time to visit is during the holidays. Don&rsquo;t miss their beautiful fireplaces.

Staying true to classic style is not only for the Inn and dining menu, but certainly extends to the wine list. The White Horse has received the annual Wine Spectator Award of Excellence consistently for nearly a decade. Please take your time reviewing this extensive list. We have selected some stellar wines for your consideration.

RT: That&rsquo;s really great, as you looked at the list did you see anything jump out at you?

MQ: Given our restaurant today, we will start with a classic, the 2021, Fran&ccedil;oise Crochet, Sancerre, from the Loire Valley of France. This Sauvignon Blanc from the Sancerre region of Loire is grown in limestone soil which allows for beautiful minerality in this organic and biodynamic white wine. Classic aromas and flavors of lime zest, and grapefruit with bright acidity abound. This sancerre is a lovely aperitif, and pairs beautifully with goat cheese and seafood.

RT: That is for sure unique. Did you find any others that caught your eye right away?

MQ: Of course! A red to consider would be the&nbsp; 2019 Oberon, Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley, California. Oberon has been producing wine in Napa for over 45 years. This is a rich and bold Cabernet Sauvignon showcasing ripe, black cherries, cassis, smooth tannins, with a note of cocoa on the finish. A stand-out Napa cabernet sauvignon to pair with richly-sauced proteins.

RT: So, Michaela, their list seems to have lots of range but was there anything that you would say is a &ldquo;must-try&rdquo;?

MQ: A must-try is the 2019 Château de Santenay, Meursault, in the Cote de Beaune of Burgundy, France. Chateau de Santenay is one of the largest domains in Burgundy with nearly 2000 years of wine history boasting a 9th-century castle. This Chardonnay is aged in French barriques, allowing for an elegant balance of bright acidity and a soft texture featuring aromas of pear, citrus, green apple with a toasty finish. Another wonderful consideration for rich fish dishes such as swordfish or salmon.

RT: These are some great calls.

So, you know I&rsquo;m getting thirsty and will need to order a bottle with my dinner, where would you guide us?

MQ: Another stand out is the 2017 Penner-Ash, Pinot Noir from Eola-Amity Hills, of the Willamette Valley, in Oregon. Penner-Ash is a must visit to experience the incredible views and winery that match their remarkable pinot noir. This well balanced and structured pinot noir packs a punch and showcases ripe cranberries, cherries, and spice, with earth and oak on the finish. Another consideration for any proteins on the menu.

RT: Ooh, Terrific.

Michaela, speaking of price, sometimes people have a budget in mind.&nbsp; Any other great value wines you&rsquo;d point us to?&nbsp;

MQ: Absolutely! Staying in Oregon, consider the 2020 Foris, Estate Grown, Pinot Blanc, from the Rogue Valley. Located in Southwestern Oregon, along the California border, Foris has been producing wines since 1974. The aromatics of this wine stand out right away. It features white flowers, pear, peach, lemon zest with a note of ginger on the finish. A food-friendly wine perfect for seafood or lighter proteins, all at an excellent price.

RT: That sounds great. What is your other value selection?

MQ: Another incredible quality and value wine to consider would be the 2021 Domaine Faury, Syrah from the Northern Rhone Valley of France. Another fragrant wine featuring ripe red cherries, spice, with a hint of lavender, not to mention the round tannins and black pepper on the finish. This Syrah can certainly stand up to any rich dishes and proteins. &nbsp;

RT: Now Michaela, what if I have a big client dinner or special occasion where I want to take it up a notch?

&nbsp;MQ: Since we are featuring the wines of the historic White Horse Tavern, then we must include the 2007 Sauternes of Chateau d&rsquo;Yquem, from Graves, in Bordeaux, France. There are records dating winemaking practices as far back as 1593 and the following history of Chateau d&rsquo;Yquem is definitely worth the read. This 2007 Sauternes is also historic and distinctive. The terrible weather during most of the 2007 growing season was leading this Sauternes to nearly be overlooked. However, a shift in the weather led the grapes to fully develop Botrytis, or Noble Rot, allowing the grapes to intensify the sweetness and richness of this historic dessert wine. With a 98-point rating from both Decanter and Wine Advocate, this is Sauternes is known as a stand-out vintage. The rich peach, apricot, white flowers, and vanilla would make an excellent companion to any special occasion.

RT: Michaela, thank you so much for all your great suggestions and helping us navigate White Horse Tavern&rsquo;s wine list. I can&rsquo;t wait to go try them myself. &nbsp;

To our audience, thank you all for joining us here on CorkRules.

If you would like us to review one of your favorite restaurants, please send us email to: <a href="mailto:Info@corkrules.Com">Info@CorkRules.Com</a> or visit our web website where we have a request form available and we will do our best to get it in the queue as quickly as possible.

We are looking forward to being with you on another CorkRules episode soon. In the meantime, please check out our website for other episodes of your favorite restaurant wine lists.&nbsp;

And finally, drink what you love and please make sure you drink responsibly.

Thank you.

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End

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CorkRules application allows you to discover wines at your favorite restaurants, learn with friends and be confident with price transparency. Order wine with confidence at restaurants and retailers. Get personalized recommendations. #DrinkWhatYouLove

Stone Creek Inn

Séduction

Cabernet - Syrah 2019

Cuvee

Pays d'Oc, France

Far Niente

Dolce, Napa Valley 2010

California, USA

Groth

Chardonnay Hillview Vineyard 2020

Chardonnay

California, USA

Laurent-Perrier

La Cuvee Brut Champagne 1812 NV

Chardonnay

Champagne, France

Sonoma-Cutrer

Russian River Ranches Chardonnay 2018

Chardonnay

California, USA

Honig

Premiere Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

Cabernet Sauvignon

California, USA

The Hess Collection

Allomi Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

Cabernet Sauvignon

Napa Valley, USA

Olivier Leflaive

Volnay 2017

Pinot Noir

Burgundy, France

Attems

Pinot Grigio Ramato 2020

Pinot Grigio

Venezia, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy

Silver Oak

Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

Cabernet Sauvignon

California, USA

Marc Brédif

Vouvray 'Bredif Brut' 2020

Chenin Blanc

Loire, France

Château Siaurac

Lalande-de-Pomerol 2010

Blend

Lalande-de-Pomerol, Bordeaux, France

Dr. Hermann

Riesling Trocken 2020

Riesling

Mosel, Germany

Macari, Katherine's Field Sauvignon Blanc, North Fork of Long Island 2020

New York, USA

Damilano

Barolo Lecinquevigne 2018

Nebbiolo

Barolo, Piedmont, Italy